“Hello? May I please speak to someone with a functioning brain?”
Such is my Microscribe Saga – the month and a half exercise in frustration that began with Virgin Atlantic breaking my microscribe (a bit of computer equipment for recording and importing shape data from objects – antelope skulls, in my case), followed by a week trying to wring a repair/work-order number out of the parent company before I could ship it, followed by a $500 bill (paid by yours truly) to mail it back to the US for repair, followed by a $2000 bill (very kindly covered by my advisor’s research funds) to upgrade it to the new model because they don’t make some parts for the old model anymore. (And mind you, when I asked about the difference between the new and old models, I was told: color, and a USB port, neither of which was broken on my otherwise mangled microscribe). Finally, after 2 weeks to diagnose, and 2 weeks to actually fix and calibrate it, they posted my microscribe on Feb. 28th, by FedEx International Priority, to arrive in 2-3 days’ time, at the museum address I had provided.
Now the fun begins. First, the FedEx contractors (a courier service at the airport) failed to reach me on my cellphone, which has been in service continuously since Jan. 19th. Did they leave a voicemail? No. Call back, try again? No. Try the ubiquitously popular text message? No. Call the museum, the name of which was on the box and is a well-known landmark in the city? No. Call the other fellow, head of department, whose name was also on the box? No. Do anything besides sit on their hands and wait for a bolt of lightning or burning bush to tell them what to do? No.
And, thanks to FedEx’s backlogged tracking number service, I was under the distinct impression my dear microscribe had been sitting in some British town for a good six days. After 2 days of phone calls and emails, I learned it was actually in Nairobi, and likely had not spent an inordinate amount of time in Britain at all. In fact, it had probably been sitting in Nairobi for nearly a week at this point. Remember also, I came out here in large part to USE the microscribe in the collections. All my work to date has been second-priority stuff, with a ruler, string, and notebook, which doesn’t justify the $400 research permit or the daily bench fees – not including the plane tickets, housing, paperwork headaches, or the bureaucratic bullshit I’ve been putting up with for the last several months.
But what of my dear MS? The holdup was due to its declared value - $2000 (about a third of the replacement cost, actually). High-value items of this sort need a PIN number for delivery. (I’ll hold off on asking Why??) Who knew? Not the company in California, for sure. Nor FedEx International, apparently, nor the museum whose missing PIN jammed up the delivery works. And of course, the museum person with PIN codes was out of the office last Friday, when I figured all this out. The secretary kindly passed it on in his absence (probably a no-no), and I phoned it in to the FedEx guy, leaving it in a message with a co-worker, and a clear request that he call me No Matter What, Today.
Nothing. So I nagged him again Monday morning. Did he have the PIN? “Huh?” The PIN and message I left last Friday. No, of course not. So I gave it to him, and asked when I might expect the delivery. This afternoon, perhaps? “No, it will take 2-3 days to process the PIN.”
WHAT?!? … Apparently it takes a long time to crunch through a string of nine letters and numbers. But what could I do? I told him in no uncertain terms that that was Ridiculous, the package was Urgent, and to please deliver it As Soon as Humanly Possible.
Speaking with the head of supplies at the museum on Monday (because of course no one works on Saturdays, or before 9:30am, or really after 4pm, and certainly not during lunchtime, from 1-2pm, or really the half-hours bordering that time), I learned there was also an issue of a clearing charge. For what, exactly, I am still ignorant. For delivery? But I already paid for that. Apparently, if the goods are for research by museum staff, the museum will cover it. If it’s for personal use, I have to pay it (and it’s about a hundred bucks, I think, to get it across town, which is nearly half what it cost to ship it to the other side of the planet – and in 1/7th of the time!).
One of my contacts here volunteered to write a memo to the supplies guy (by hand, since there was no power that day), basically lying that it was for use by various department staff so I could dodge the fee, because he fully understood it’s mine, and for my use, and while I’m happy to demonstrate and share knowledge, I haven’t any mind to let others risk breaking it – not that I really have time for that now, I’m so pressed as it is. So, memo written and submitted, I should have had it Tuesday. I gave the supplies guy the FedEx guy’s info, the tracking number, the situation, everything. I passed it off as cleanly as I knew how. Full information disclosure. Cards on the table.
Two days later I called the FedEx guy to see what the heck was up with my still-missing package. He claimed there was an issue with the clearance fee. I said it had been handled, the museum would pay it. He then dodged to a problem with the clearing agent – hadn’t heard from him. So basically, one or both parties failed to get my baton in the hand-off of the Delivery Fiasco. I went to bug the supplies dept guy. The secretary assured me the clearing agent would talk to FedEx today. Hopefully I should have it tomorrow. That is, Friday, March 16th, 2 weeks later than expected.
Evidently by “tomorrow” it’s understood here to mean “Sometime this week. Maybe. Be sure to remind me at least a half dozen times. Then I’ll see what I can do about it at the 11th hour, by which time it will probably be too late to do anything about it until tomorrow.”
So, I have ranted to various individuals about the mess, including taxi drivers, the guesthouse cook, the receptionist, my travel agent, and now a recurrent boarder at the guesthouse here (a civil engineer working near the Ugandan border), who has been very kind, and perhaps the most conscious and intelligent person I’ve yet met in Kenya. Instead of chuckling softly and shuffling away (like one prominent museum staff member today), or shaking his head and smiling (like the taxi driver), or feigning sympathy and indignant outrage without effecting any change at all (like the other museum staff member), this guy actually looked me in the eye and listened, then offered novel suggestions about what to do.
Like call the US embassy tomorrow, or even the head of the airport. The embassy? I don’t need a stamp or to be med-evacked, thanks. No, he insisted, this was a real problem, and right up their alley. They can talk to the blooming idiots at the delivery company, and get the wheels rolling, because it’s patently ridiculous that as a student and researcher here to do work, I’ve nearly wasted a third of my time because of administrative crap and blatant ineptitude and poor service.
So, if my dear microscribe isn’t waiting for me tomorrow morning when I arrive, I will call the FedEx guy, give him hell, make a trip to the supplies office (because face-time is how things work here, if they work at all), and then call the embassy, give them my sob story (in as professional a tone as I can muster), then try to forget the whole issue so I can measure as many eland skulls as humanly possible before closing time (to the tunes of KMFDM, drowning out the static-clogged Indian music and references to Allah being piped over the lab radio) and tomorrow take off for two days of sunshine, driving, and hopefully lots of bovids. And hopefully on Monday I can finally do what I came here to do.
And if my microscribe has not survived over two weeks of transit… well…. I just might give it up, cry for the first time in my professional life, and resign myself to doing a PhD with old, unsophisticated, second-rate methods, supplemented by suggestive but ultimately inconclusive microscribe data taken from too few of the wrong specimens to really be of any use at all.
But by golly, I plan to see lesser kudu this weekend. Crack of dawn, there I am, binoculars and camera in hand, tracking down the wiley wascals of the northern bush of Tsavo West Nat’l Park, some 50 miles northeast of Mt. Kilimanjaro. My plan is to see all those bovids that can most reasonably be seen in Kenya – lesser kudu having a fair distribution through Ethiopia, Somalia, Kenya, and Tanzania – thereby removing any reason I might have of visiting this country (or region) again in the next 20 years, if ever.
–3/16/07. PS: On the brighter side of this bureaocratic nightmare, the US Embassy got back to me right away, although the fellow was not terribly helpful, saying "Welcome to Kenya. Their bureaocracy is not as evolved as ours." Well, it’s too evolved, in my judgement, but that’s largely an issue of semantics. I threatened the FedEx guy with harassment from the US Embassy, and paid a special visit to the supplies department at the museum, and was told it should arrive this afternoon. Although my outlook now mainly consists of "The proof is in the pudding," the good news is that they haven’t yet promised to deliver it by a specific date or time. The fact that they said ‘this afternoon’ is therefore a ray of hope in an otherwise bleak landscape for science (and business in general) in Kenya. We will see. I am considering returning to Kenya (red tape depending) after Egypt if I cannot get the minimum amount of work done to justify my trip. Better to shell out a little extra, then have a heap of only semi-useful data to struggle with for the next two (or ten) years.